| Lighting is one of the first things people need solar for. In early
solar homes and farms in the depression, they had all DC lighting. Then came AC
power from inverters in the 80s, but many still relied on DC for much of their
lighting. Now in the 21st century though, we recommend mostly standard AC wiring
for the house. A couple of DC circuits for emergency & maintenance are still
a good idea. These can be LED path lighting, accent rope lighting, 12v Halogen
track lighting, & always a DC bulb in the equipment room in case the inverter
shuts off. AC is the best choice for lighting now, because of the availability
of reliable, low cost compact fluorescents. Standard AC wiring & switches
are far cheaper than DC's heavy copper and special switches. The efficiency and
savings of AC wiring and fluorescent outweighs the extra losses of the inverter.
AC (120v) can go 10 times as far as 12 v DC on the same gauge wire. Also,
because the current is 10 times less (for the same power), you can put much more
lighting on a smaller wire too. AC Vs
DC lighting
|
|
Reliability |
Available from |
Cost of compact fluorescent bulb |
Cost of switch |
Cost of wire per ft |
lights on one circuit |
EMF radiation |
| AC |
good , easy replacement | hardware
store, grocery store, anywhere | $3 |
50 cents | 20 cents
| up to 15 |
low level EMF when lights on |
|
DC |
LED great, CF bulbs poor, |
Special Order SolarRay |
$40 |
$4.00
|
50 cents or more |
only 4 at 12 vdc. |
No
EMF | Comparing
types of bulbs
|
BulbType |
Light Output (apparent lumens/ watt) |
Life (in hours) |
Shadows while working |
Color quality |
| Fluorescent |
60 | 5,000
- 10,000 | little
shadow | OK to
good |
| Halogen |
20 - 30 |
2,000 |
Darkest shadows |
best |
| LED |
200 | 100,000 |
medium shadow |
poor to OK |
| Regular incandescent |
15 |
750 -1,200 |
medium
shadow |
good |
Light output shows how much light each bulb puts out for the same power usage.
LEDs can be almost 20 times more efficient than a regular bulb. Fluorescent could
stay on 4 times as long for the same energy use.
Fluorescents are the best overall choice for most lighting. They
come in regular long tube fixtures, Traditional Tubes come in 18",
24", & 48" sizes. Ballasts are still noisy magnetic. We
sell DC electronic ballasts for the tube fluorscents.
Compact fluorescents are now available that are the same size and
shape as regular incandescent bulbs. They fit most lamps & fixtures.
Compact fluorescents are usually instant start with electronic ballasts,
and have good color. We normally don't recommend DC Compact Fluorescents
because they have not proven reliable -- they overheat at low voltage
(a Low Voltage Disconnect is a must).
Halogen bulbs are best for viewing art work ,etc. where color is
most important. 12 volt DC and 120 V bulbs and fixtures are available.
LEDs aren't in wider usage because its expensive to string enough
bulbs together to light a room completely. Also, colors are very distorted
under LED. For path lighting, flashlights, etc. they're the best.
Incandescent bulbs are one of the worst things you can have in
a solar powered house (next to a toaster oven that won't turn off). They're
only 5% efficient (95% of the energy they use is given off as heat), and
there are much better alternatives
Final
Recommendations:
We recommend mostly all AC lighting except for one emergency DC lighting
circuit. Also, we recommend using mostly compact fluorescent lights, but
mixing a few halogens in for spot lighting of certain areas. Regular incandescents
are not recommended, and LED lights are great for flashlights, path lighting,
and the emergency DC circuit.
Installation
& Maintenance Tips:
Convert old DC lighting circuits to AC on older solar systems.
We change all outlets on that circuit to AC and then pull the wires out
of the DC fuse box, and rewire them (with extensions and a j-box, if needed)
into the AC breaker box. Just make sure all the outlets are properly grounded,
are converted to AC receptacles, and that no DC appliances could be accidentally
plugged into the AC circuit.
Tips for Wiring for
DC: 1) always check wire sizing. For example: you can't go more than 10
to 15 ft on regular 12 ga wire for 100 watts of lights. (See wire sizing tables
or our handy wire sizer spread sheet) 2)
Don't put more than 4 light fixtures per circuit.
3) Use DC rated switches. Old "snap" switches are DC rated,
although they don't always say so. Silent switches usually say "AC
only". Don't use them for DC!
4) Use DC rated fuses or breakers too. If they're not DC rated, like
switches, breakers can burn in the "ON" position. If they're
is an electrical danger, you may not be able to turn the switch off and
the breaker may burn "on" too!
5) Watch those connections. Matching large (#2) wire to a light switch
takes some specialty connectors. (See wire &
connectors page) Switches can't handle wire bigger than 12 Ga., so run a short
piece of 12 GA wire (pigtail ) to the switch itself. 6) Use our DC only
outlets, so only the fixtures made for DC can be plugged into DC and vice versa.
7) Label DC light fixtures, so your house guest doesn't screw a 12 volt
bulb into a 120 v circuit. (It's dangerous)
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